TIANJARA CAMP

by Paul Ellis

Map - 1:25,000 Tianjara

On Wednesday 14th July Vicki and I set off from Mt Bushwalker Car Park for Tianjara Campsite along section 4 of the Two Rivers Walking Track. This walk was the back-up for the 4 day Budawangs trip which was cancelled when one of our walking companions took ill early in that walk. We had returned home and spent the next day and a half deciding where we should walk. This walk was originally scheduled for the October School Holidays.

The morning of the walk saw clear sunny skies as we left home and drove south along the Princes Highway towards Milton, turning off onto Porters Creek Dam Road we ascended to Little Forest Plateau and turned right for the 4km drive along the dirt road towards Mt Bushwalker Car Park. We arrived there just after 10.00am, donned rucksacks and at 10.05 headed north along the 4WD road. The wind had picked up by now so we kept out fleece jackets on as we walked. Within 500 metres we had come across the old military landing ground, once used in the days when this area was open only for the defence forces who used the area for training purposes. There was a large collection of bee hives at both the northern end and southern end of this old runway, but these bees did not bother us.

Within 30 minutes we had come to the gate that last year had barred our entrance due to bridge repair work. We stopped at the nearby rock platform to enjoy some great coastal scenery. The views stretching north through Sussex Inlet, St Georges Basin and Jervis Bay up to the Shoalhaven Bight and beyond. Below us, through cracks in the rock we could make out the famous ravines, which can be explored some distance. However, these ravines were not on the itinerary this walk and we continued on. The track taking us through mostly heathland shrubbery with the occasional sections of eucalypt to break the monotony. The track took us very close to the easternmost cliffs of the escarpment, though the views were somewhat blotted out by tall stands of eucalypt trees.

At one point we passed by another collection of bee hives, very close to the road and suddenly I found myself host to a bee which had become entangled in my hair. Fearful of being stung I shook my head vigourously in a bid to release my hostage. I was wishing I'd brought along that comb, but no matter what I tried, the bee would not budge. Every time I thought I'd got rid of the troublesome insect I would have itís incessant buzzing ringing very close to my right ear. With the help of Vicki, who bravely used her hand to remove the pest we were able to continue. Time for another crewcut I think.

Just over one kilometre further on we came to 'The Pinch' a section where the high plateau has narrowed considerably. It's clearly marked on the Tianjara topographic map not far from the headwaters of Claydons Creek. At its narrowest section the road passes through what is just 6 metres wide of high ground before dropping away sheer at both sides before the plateau again widens. I must admit I was very disappointed. I was expecting a very exposed section that would enable some spectacular photographs. However, The Pinch is very well vegetated and had we not been keeping an eye on our map, would have crossed without even realising it. However, at the northern end we stopped and scrambled over some rocks to take in some excellent views to the west. These included the Clyde River Valley, Shrouded Gods Mountain and the ridge that contains the Folly Point Track.

The track now ascended slightly coming out of eucalypt forest onto a wide heath covered plain dotted with the occasional tree. In the distance to the north-west was Mount Tianjara. Our track would take us around its westernmost flank, but first the road would take us in a north-eastern direction before striking westwards. A good example of the high winds you can get up here was soon seen as we passed by three fallen trees at the roadside, the shallow soils barely deep enough to hold a decent root system. As I turned back to take a photo of these fallen trees I was given an even better view to the south-west as we were now high enough to view The Castle in all its majesty and I couldnít help myself but comment that had the original trip gone ahead, we would be climbing that rock monolith this very day.

As the track turned westward we soon found ourselves crossing a small creek where we stopped for a short break. This unnamed creek (found at Grid Ref 550021) eventually drops off the plateau to join up with Claydons Creek. From the creek the track ascended dramatically. Certainly the steepest section of track we have had to negotiate so far, only a rise of about 90 metres but in a very short distance. We decided to take it slowly, stopping only once at the steepest incline and we were soon up. The track passes below the southernmost bluff of what is the Turpentine Range, part of which includes Mt Tianjara. This bluff looks easy to climb, but once again this was not on the itinerary for this trip, maybe next time. We now descended gradually to Rixon Creek, crossing the new concrete bridge. We arrived there at 1.15pm and decided to have our lunch break. On the northern side was a rocky outcrop which served a perfect place to sit in the sun and enjoy a 30 minute lunch break.

The track now headed directly north and ascended slightly to pass the eastern side of Mt Tianjara. The track then descended to another unnamed creek before ascending steeply through more eucalypt forest to another heathland plateau. Before us to the north was Kangaroo Hill, used in times past by the defence forces as a sentry post during training exercises. In fact, evidence can still be found in the form of trenches and foxholes. The road divides just south of Kangaroo Hill, we could head north-west or north-east. We took the latter option and started descending the eastern flank of Kangaroo Hill towards Tianjara Creek. Just past the creek crossing, just south of the intersection with Twelve Mile Road, is a side track that leads into the bush to Tianjara Camp. It was 2.25pm when we arrived at our destination and gratefully dropped our heavy rucksacks.

We were the only hikers here, so we had the pick of the tent sites and chose a spot sheltered from the wind by some trees, but close enough to a decent sized fireplace, complete with a large stump for comfortable seating requirements. First order of business was to replenish our water supply. I quickly found the side-track to Tianjara Creek and located the brilliant waterfalls. I was amazed that water was actually flowing over the falls, especially considering we're presently drought stricken. We negotiated the small track to the top of the falls where we refilled the waterbags, then returned to camp. The walk back revealing a vast amount of fallen dead timber.

This was indeed a welcome rarity, a campsite in the Budawangs that had an ample supply of fallen dead timber for burning. Vicki and I made several forays to stockpile enough timber for 3 nights worth of campfires - at least there would be plenty for the next occupants if we didnít use it all. At 3.00pm we pitched our tents and set up our sleeping gear. We collected more wood, then commenced preparing dinner at 4.00pm. I had brought along some pre-cooked frozen sausages and some pasta and sauce. I made a small fire, creating enough embers to slow cook the sausages whilst I prepared the cup-a-soups and pasta. When it came time to retrieve the sausages I was mortified to find they were still cold. I had not created a big enough fire to create the embers required to heat up the meat. Oh well, I was left with no choice but to put the sausages on the plates and cover them with the hot pasta and sauce. It did the job.

With daylight fading we donned some warm clothing and got the fire going again. With the sun gone and the wind still blowing it was very chilly, even whilst sitting around the campfire. It was gonna be a very cold night. We kept the campfire burning until 7.15pm when the cold air drove us away from the smouldering embers and into our tents for a very early night. I fell asleep almost straight away.

At one stage during the night I awoke in my sleeping bag feeling very hot and bothered. The sleeping bag was doing such a good job at keeping me warm that it became unbearably hot and I was forced to unzip the bag to let some of the heat out before falling asleep again. I woke again at 2.45am freezing cold and had to zip up the bag again to get warm. I woke at 7.45am and exited the tent to a chilly cold morning. I wasted little time putting on my fleece jacket and gloves, but noticed that the windy conditions had ceased. Again the sky was clear, not a cloud in sight. Vicki joined me at 8.00am. She had slept comfortably, but had noticed the cold during the night.

Breakfast was a couple of mini Mars Bars and a hot cup of Ovaltine followed by our morning ablutions. We had plenty of time so there was no hurry in dismantling the tents, but we got an early start by packing away our sleeping gear and setting up the rest of our equipment prior to packing the rucksacks. Vicki still hasn't got the hang of packing up her self-inflating sleeping mat, so I gave her a hand with that. Although we had pitched the tents out of the wind I was starting to regret not pitching them on the open ground, for now the sun was warming that area up while the condensation continued to drip from our tents - 6 of one, half a dozen of the other. I used our pack towels to dry off the tents before dismantling them, cursing the Macpac pegs on my tent that required the extra effort to remove them from the hard ground. Eventually everything was packed up and at exactly 10.00am we hoisted the rucksacks onto our backs and headed out of the campsite.

Our plans for this trip meant we were to head back to Mt Bushwalker Car Park by the same route we had walked in yesterday. With the sun up we were soon very warm and thankful we had packed the fleece jackets in the rucksacks before heading off. We knew the first part of the return trip would include some ascending, at least until after Rixon Creek, but we just took our time and took it easy. By the time we reached Mt Tianjara I noticed we were doing better time than when we had walked in yesterday. Obviously a little (sic) fitter for our exertions the day before. As we came over the rise at the western side of Mt Tianjara we were greeted with the magnificent views of Mt Talaterang and Pigeonhouse Mountain in the distance and shortly after that, The Castle. We also had great views of the coastline to the south-east, a perfect panorama in which to walk and one which will probably remain the most vivid memory of this entire walk.

We seemed to be doing good time as we headed south back to the car, I hadnít bothered checking how long we had taken to do each section during the walk in (except from lunch at Rixon Creek to the campsite) so I had no idea how well we were doing. I had planned to stop at the northern end of The Pinch for lunch, but arrived there quite soon after stopping for a late morning tea break, so we decided on having lunch back at the car park. Just before passing those wretched bee hives we both donned our beanies, despite the unseasonable hot weather. I was not keen to play host to another buzzing hitch hiker. It was 1.20pm when we arrived back at the car and the finish of another considerably successful walk. Next time we do this walk we will take the extra time to explore some of the interesting landmarks such as the Southern Bluff of the Turpentine Range, Mt Tianjara, Kangaroo Hill and maybe even the Ravines. The only other thing I would change would be including section three of the Two Rivers Track using a drop-off and pick-up.



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